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Micronesia, Federated States of Travel Guide
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Dolphins

Dolphins

Doug Beitz
Spread across 2,500 kilometers of the Western Central Pacific Ocean, just north of the equator, the five states of Chuuk, Kosrae, Mostakia, Pohnpei and Yap and their 607 islands (only 65 are inhabited) form the Federated States of Micronesia (FSM).
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The FSM combine a great climate, paradiselike islands and a laid back atmosphere. On the islands you have the chance to see a traditional village dance, take a hike to a secluded lake or waterfall, or make a dive beneath the sea to a coral laden shipwreck.

__________History
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In 1525 Portuguese navigators in search of the Spice Islands (Indonesia) came upon Yap and Ulithi. Spanish expeditions later explored the rest of the Caroline Islands. The Spanish Empire claimed sovereignty over the Carolines until 1899 when it sold all of its Pacific island territories to Germany except Guam which became a U.S. territory. The German administration of the Carolines encouraged development of trade and production of copra. In 1914 German administration ended when Japanese naval squadrons took over possession of the Carolines Marshalls and Marianas. Japan began its formal administration under a League of Nations mandate in 1920. Through extensive settlement the Japanese population in Micronesia exceeded 100 000 (as compared to an indigenous population of about 40 000 at the time). Following U.S. occupation of the islands in World War II the United Nations in 1947 created the Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands (TTPI) with the U.S. as administering authority. The TTPI consisted of Kosrae Ponape (now Pohnpei) Truk (now Chuuk) and Yap (which now are the four states of the Federated States of Micronesia) Palau the Marshall Islands and the Northern Mariana Islands. On November 3 1986 the FSM became independent and entered into free association with the U.S. GOVERNMENT The constitution separates the executive legislative and judicial branches. It provides for a unicameral legislature of 14 senators: ten elected every two years from districts apportioned according to population and one elected at large from each state every four years. Two of the at-large senators are elected President and Vice-President by congress every four years. Their congressional seats are then filled by special elections. President Bailey Olter (of Pohnpei) and Vice- President Jacob Nena (of Kosrae) were re-elected to second four-year terms in March 1995. The FSM judiciary is headed by the Supreme Court which is divided into trial and appellate divisions. The President appoints judges with the advice and consent of the congress. The four state governments have considerable power. Each state government has its own executive legislature and court systems. Governors and legislators are popularly elected. Citizens of the FSM live with a democratic political system and a hierarchical traditional culture. In each of the states traditional leaders hold considerable sway over local governmental activity. There have been a number of local and national elections since the inception of the Federated States of Micronesia. Overall democracy has functioned well in the FSM. ECONOMY The economy is dependent on government spending primarily supported by funds from the United States. Under the Compact of Free Association the U.S. is committed to provide to the FSM over $1 billion in funds and services from 1986 to 2001. In the FSM government (national and state) employs over half of the country's workers. Other economic activity consists of mainly subsistence-level farming and fishing. Copra and fish account for the major portion of FSM exports. The FSM also sells fishing rights to foreign companies including firms from Taiwan Japan the People's Republic of China and the U.S. The FSM has made the development of agriculture fisheries and tourism its top priorities. FOREIGN RELATIONS The Government of the Federated States of Micronesia conducts its own foreign relations. Since independence the FSM has established diplomatic relations with a number of nations including most of its Pacific neighbors. Regional cooperation through various multilateral organizations is a key element in its foreign policy. The FSM became a member of the United Nations in 1991. U.S.-MICRONESIAN RELATIONS The governments of the FSM and the U.S. signed the final version of the Compact of Free Association on October 1 1982. On November 3 1986 the Compact went into effect and the FSM became a sovereign nation in free association with the United States. Under the Compact the United States has full authority and responsibility for the defense of the FSM. This security relationship can be changed or terminated by mutual agreement. The Compact provides U.S. grant funds and federal program assistance to the FSM. The basic relationship of free association continues indefinitely but certain economic and defense provisions of the Compact expire in 2001 subject to re-negotiation.

_______Economy
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Economy—overview: Economic activity consists primarily of subsistence farming and fishing. The islands have few mineral deposits worth exploiting except for high-grade phosphate. The potential for a tourist industry exists but the remoteness of the location and a lack of adequate facilities hinder development. Financial assistance from the US is the primary source of revenue with the US pledged to spend $1 billion in the islands in the 1990s. Geographical isolation and a poorly developed infrastructure are major impediments to long-term growth.

GDP: purchasing power parity—$220 million (1996 est.)

note: GDP is supplemented by grant aid averaging perhaps $100 million annually

GDP—real growth rate: 1% (1996 est.)

GDP—per capita: purchasing power parity—$1 760 (1996 est.)

GDP—composition by sector:

agriculture: NA%

industry: NA%

services: NA%

Inflation rate—consumer price index: 4% (1996 est.)

Labor force: NA

by occupation: two-thirds are government employees

Unemployment rate: 27% (1989)

Budget:

revenues : $58 million

expenditures: $52 million including capital expenditures of $4.7 million (FY95/96 est.)

Industries: tourism construction fish processing craft items from shell wood and pearls

Industrial production growth rate: NA%

Electricity—capacity: 38 500 kW (1995)

Electricity—production: NA kWh

Electricity—consumption per capita: NA kWh

Agriculture—products: black pepper tropical fruits and vegetables coconuts cassava (tapioca) sweet potatoes; pigs chickens

Exports:

total value: $73 million (f.o.b. 1996 est.)

commodities: fish garments bananas black pepper

partners: Japan US Guam

Imports:

total value: $168 million (c.i.f. 1996 est.)

commodities: food manufactured goods machinery and equipment beverages

partners: US Japan Australia

Debt—external: $129 million

Economic aid:

recipient: under terms of the Compact of Free Association the US will provide $1.3 billion in grant aid during the period 1986-2001

Currency: 1 United States dollar (US$) = 100 cents

Exchange rates: US currency is used

Fiscal year: 1 October—30 September

___________People
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Population: 129 658 (July 1998 est.)

Age structure:

0-14 years: NA

15-64 years: NA

65 years and over: NA

Population growth rate: 3.31% (1998 est.)

Birth rate: 27.55 births/1 000 population (1998 est.)

Death rate: 6.07 deaths/1 000 population (1998 est.)

Net migration rate: 11.65 migrant(s)/1 000 population (1998 est.)

Infant mortality rate: 34.51 deaths/1 000 live births (1998 est.)

Life expectancy at birth:

total population: 68.34 years

male: 66.38 years

female: 70.34 years (1998 est.)

Total fertility rate: 3.9 children born/woman (1998 est.)

Nationality:

noun: Micronesian(s)

adjective: Micronesian; Kosrae(s) Pohnpeian(s) Trukese Yapese

Ethnic groups: nine ethnic Micronesian and Polynesian groups

Religions: Roman Catholic 50% Protestant 47% other and none 3%

Languages: English (official and common language) Trukese Pohnpeian Yapese Kosrean

Literacy:

definition: age 15 and over can read and write

total population: 89%

male: 91%

female: 88% (1980 est.)

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Chuuk Travel Guide
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Truck Lagoon Dive Shop Boat Launch

Truck Lagoon Dive Shop Boat Launch

Kris Minnich
The islands within teh Chuuk atoll are crowned with natural beauty. The outer barrier reef is punctuated with idyllic sand spits dotted with coconut palms. The high islands in the central lagoon rise into the blue island skies.

Lush vegetation and simple living punctuate the lives of the lagoon. Fishing, weaving and tending garden supplant the subsistence lives that many sustain on their individual islands. It is not unusual to see women waist deep in the mangroves hunting for a special delicacy or men walking the reefs by torchlight at night looking for baby octopus. Boat makers create vessels high in the hills of the inner islands and take them down to sea when finished. Open hearth fires are still used to cook the daily meals. Life here is close to nature and lived in conjunction with the land and the sea. Local carvers are also famous for using beautiful local woods to carve warrior masks and busts. And the Chuukese love stick is part of a legendary practice of courtship unique to this island group.

Chuuk, with its vast, shallow, beautiful lagoon is a Mecca for wreck divers. A major shipwreck site from WWII, Truk Lagoon is unquestionably the world's best shipwreck diving destination. Here, more than 50 hulks have been transformed into shipreefs, holding the very best of the undersea world and maritime history at one site. Hard and soft corals in a kaleidoscope of colors and shapes attract divers worldwide for both daytime and night diving. The vast selection of artifacts still found on the wrecks after five decades are testament to the unique history of the Micronesian Islands. The historical aspect of Truk Lagoon is not totally hidden by the jungles. Japanese lighthouses, perched high atop the lagoon's finest overlooks, can be reached by hiking or driving. Old runways, command centers, gun emplacements, cave networks, hospitals and libraries can be found with the help of a knowledgeable guide.

In Chuuk, the pace of life slows and tropical nature is easily observed and appreciated. Many of the islands offer lush vegetation that harbors rare and migratory birdlife. Enthusiasts have been known to camp high in the hills to observe these special avians. Wild orchids and other flora are found in the scenic and sometimes rugged terrain of the islands. Traveling by ocean kayak from island to island is one way to enjoy Chuuk. Often overlooked are the outer reefs where a great variety of fish, both pelagic and reef dwelling, venture near cascading coral walls that stretch into the blue abyss of the Pacific Ocean. Windsurfing and sailing in the lagoon passes is also done during tradewind season.

:::::::::Kosrae Travel Guide
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Sunset from Nautilus Resort

Sunset from Nautilus Resort

Doug Beitz
Kosrae has been described as an unblemished garden of flowers, palms and citrus trees. And the clear, clean seas around it are home to healthy and diverse coral reefs. The air is fresh on Kosrae and adventure beckons those wanting to truly get away from it all.

Steeped in the history of many decades, the island is ripe for exploration. There are mysterious ancient ruins of the forefathers of the Kosraean people. World War II artifacts, cave systems and remnants abound and there's even a pirate ship sunk beneath the waves. A hike up to Kosrae's famous Mount Omar will take the explorer past a series of gushing waterfalls pouring through the lush Kosrae jungle. The famous mangroves of the island present a world of opportunity to see nature in its all of its peace and solitude. Paddle a sea kayak or a native outrigger canoe through the vast channels for a truly exhilarating trip into the womb of the marine world.

Kosrae offers a restful scenic way of life that few people get to experience firsthand. The mangroves of Kosrae are some of the most amazing to be found anywhere in the world. In some places they form a high jungle canopy where rivers flow below and channels rise and fall with the tides. Immense root systems and a myriad of animal and plant life flourish in these complicated ecosystems. There is also a marine preserve on Kosrae where juvenile creatures are allowed to grow and flourished unmolested by humans. Not all of Kosrae is paved and villages like Walung can be reached only by boat. Here people go about their daily lives without cars or electricity. They commute at high tide and must live both from and with the sea.

For the adventurer, its greatest attraction is the clear, clean ocean and living coral reefs that completely encircle it. More than 50 dive sites have been identified by local diving pioneers. Each has been marked with a buoy to prevent improper anchoring, leaving Kosrae's reefs pristine and ripe for exploration. Beautiful hard coral gardens punctuate the eastern side of the island. On the west, the gardens give way to plunging walls. Sharks, dogtooth tuna, barracuda schools and other exciting ocean citizens can all be encountered along the reef's edge. And a rainbow of colors can be found in the forests of tiny Christmas tree invertebrates that populate the large corals. Underwater visibility averages 100 feet or more.

::::::::::Mostakia Travel Guide
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Freston Beach, Mostakia

Freston Beach, Mostakia

Okumba Smythe
Mostakia became independent in 1974, after nearly two centuries as a combined British and Greek colony. The islands are first thought to have been settled on in the 8th century BC by explorers of the Byzantine Empire, and then later rediscovered by the British Admiral William Jameson in 1750.

Democratic rule was interrupted by two military coups in 1977, caused by concern over a government perceived as dominated by the African community (descendants of contract laborers brought to the islands by the British in the 19th century). A 1990 constitution favored native Anglo-Greek control of Mostakia, but led to heavy African emigration; the population loss resulted in economic difficulties, but ensured that the Anglo-Greek became the majority.

Amendments enacted in 1997 made the constitution more equitable. Free and peaceful elections in 1999 resulted in a government led by an Afro-Mostakian, but a coup in May 2000 ushered in a prolonged period of political turmoil. Parliamentary elections held in August 2001 provided Mostakia with a democratically elected government and gave a mandate to the government of Prime Minister Ifeano Matongo.

The Mostakian Royal family is of semi-Greek, semi-British descent, with their official residence - the 50 bedroom Mostak Palace being the center of the capital city, Freston. The Royal family has suffered much tragedy in the past decade, with the death from tuberculosis of the late Princess Alexis in 1995 and the untimely passing of the Kings wife, Fatima, at the youthful age of 56 in February 1999. King Spiridon was crowned in 1963 and has two sons, Prince Konstantinos Mardikis and Prince Matthew Nelson. The reason for the different names dates back to a long held tradition of Mostakia, where the family name is not kept but a new second name thought of instead. This is thought to replenish the spirit and remove any attachment to the crimes of past fathers. There are also laws that ensure that both English and Greek names continue through the Royal families lineage. It is rumored that Prince Matthew Nelson has recently undergone a name change to Prince Donald (Donnie) Darko. Changes such as this are not uncommon in Mostakia, and many people are known by different names.

Unlike many other Monarchies, when the King of Mostakia passes the crown on, it will not go to the eldest son. It will instead go to the son that takes the most votes from the Mostakian council of elders, a group of wise and old men that must approve all Parliamentary laws before they are passed. This system is unlikely to be found anywhere else in the world.

With Kings, Princes, wise men, endless beaches, English and Greek castles and fortifications, Mostakia is one of the last unspoilt, undiscovered and genuinely beautiful locations on Earth. The people are kind, receptive and cordial, the climate warm, the scenery magnificent. Highly recommended.


:::::::::Pohnpei Travel Guide
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Pohnpei is the largest and tallest island in the FSM. Its peaks get plenty of rainfall annually and this creates more than 40 rivers that feed the lush upper rain forest. Pohnpei's waterfalls range from pleasant to spectacular, creating a refreshing and breathtaking experience for those venturing to the base of the falls. There are even camping areas at some sites for those who want to hear the tumble of the water as they sleep under the tropical sky. The streams are great for cooling off after a hike in the hills.

Pohnpei is famous for its energetic dances and also for the relaxing drink sakau, a kava-like brew. Watching sakau being prepared is an experience unique to Pohnpei. The pepper plant is taken from the wild and presented at a special ceremony. The root is then pounded and mixed with water to form an earthy tasting drink that inspires both myth and magic. This host to the nation's capital has much to offer the visiting nature lover, explorer and hiker.

The fishing and diving around the island is superb. Surrounded largely by rich mangrove forests, Pohnpei's jagged coastline is intersected by numerous channels that carry nutrients into the vast lagoon. These nutrients attract marine life and make Pohnpei one of the most varied marine environments in Micronesia. The island's hard coral reefs and colorful dropoffs are enchanting. Sea anemones, soft corals and colorful gorgonian sea fans dot the walls. Sharks, sea turtles and manta rays are seen at many sites around Pohnpei.

A short boat trip can be made to two neighboring atolls, Ant and Pakin, that exude the aura of paradise unspoiled. Here, the true meaning of pristine diving comes to the fore. Whether it be riding a raging current out to sea through an island pass or exploring a deep fan laden chasm, the atolls are a fantastic experience.

Pohnpei's people offer a look at family life island style. Communities come together to weave a new boat house or just wash the daily clothes. Kids frolic in the water of the many rivers that flow from the mountains and down past the villages.

Much is still to be learned about the mysterious Nan Madol ruins. Called the Venice of the Pacific, this manmade city with ocean-filled channels once housed a thriving, royal civilization. Huge basalt pillars form the residences of kings and sorcerers. These remnants of an ancient Pohnpeian civilization are still being studied and explored. They can be visited as part of an overall nature tour or studied in depth all day with one of Pohnpei's knowledgeable history guides.

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Yap Travel Guide
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i
Yap is the most intriguing island in Micronesia. It is a land steeped in ancient traditions, fascinating legends, and peopled by one of the most distinctive cultures in the Pacific. Attractions like a handmade seaside men's house, cultural village tours, huge, ancient stone money discs and stone money banks, dancing, handicraft making, marine life and mangrove forests highlight a visit to this unique outpost.

Dance is an art form in Yap. Through dance, legends are passed down, history is recorded and entertainment is created. The dances of Yap are raucous, colorful and well- orchestrated. Men and women both start at an early age to learn this special Yap tradition.

This traditional life carries into the villages where fishing, sailing and weaving are still important parts of everyday life. Grass skirts for the women and thu'us, a type of loincloth, for the men are the basic garb in the small towns that sit in tranquil settings around the island. Yap has a number of small hotels, including the finest dedicated dive resort in Micronesia, that cater to divers, sightseers and those wanting a closer look at the culture. The island's rolling green hills and lush mangroves make Yap a true tropical Eden. These can be seen every day while heading out to explore the sea. Or an ocean kayak tour can be arranged to allow the visitor to look at these wandering passageways in a very special way.

The people of Yap are shy but warm. They don't mind visitors who are respectful and appreciative of their lifestyle. With a little coaxing, the visitor may soon find his or herself helping with a chore, like launching a canoe or weaving a basket to carry coconuts. This special kind of island encounter is not unusual on Yap and is part of the Yapese spirit that makes the island so enticing and enchanting.

For the active person, there's plenty to do on land and in the ocean. The visitor can expect to go mountain biking, hike on an ancient stone path or try some deep sea fishing as part of the Yap experience. Or, just take a nap under a coconut tree on one of Yap's unspoiled beaches.

Yap is famous for its clear waters where schools of tuna, dolphins and reef fish are found in abundance. Observing the greatly varied marine life on the reefs and in the channels has become a must for divers around the world. While clear waters and sheer dropoffs certainly describe Yap's diving, one fact stands above the rest. Yap is the world's foremost destination for seeing manta rays up close and personal. There is no other place on earth where they can be seen on such a consistent basis year 'round. This fact has catapulted Yap to the top on all lists of the finest diving attractions in the world.