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Lima Travel Guide
Edit This The best resource for sights, hotels, restaurants, bars, what to do and see
Pachacamac Ruins, southeast of Lima

Pachacamac Ruins, southeast of Lima

Stuart Starrs

Lima, City of Kings, was founded by Francisco Pizarro in 1535 on 6 January, the Feast of the Kings (Epiphany). It was designed to be a purely Spanish city in a conquered territory, but it has turned out to be a rather drab and patched-together place, especially after 450 years of earthquakes. It is as chaotic as one might expect in a city where more people live today than did in the whole country in 1970.

One might think the city is choking in smog, and this is certainly true. But at the seaside, most of the time the clouds waft in at real low altitudes, adding to a depressing feel of the city. It does make for a city which is not as hot as one would expect.

Traffic is crazy, with buses competing with each other and the millions of taxis for passengers. Respect comes with the size of the vehicle -- pedestrians are low on the food chain. People tend to drive as if they were on a mission to wear out their brakes and refill their gas tank as soon as possible.


The city consists of a collection of distinct neighborhoods with their own look, feel and history. Downtown Lima has some of the most impressive colonial architecture, as this used to be the whole city in its early years. Even within the historic center many old houses are being rundown. Travelers shouldn?t miss the market area and Chinatown (have some Chifa!), that is if they don't mind surfing in a sea of people. Don`t attempt to do this with a big dollar sign above your head. A couple of kilometers south of the old town is the area where most buses arrive and leave. This is not the part of town in which you want to wander around when you`re packed and tired. But it is entertaining to wander around here if you haven`t got valuables on you.

Miraflores is a residential and commercial district and it is where tourists usually find suitable accomodations. It is a nice neighborhood with shopping opportunities at all prices. The pebbled beach is attractive here -- as are the girls bathing there. Peruvians care about looks, that much is clear. Nightlife in Miraflores also offers all kinds of opportunities, from the locally famous Calle de las Pizzas, to very exclusive restaurants and bars.

However, if you are looking for action you are better off cruising through Barranco -- the more tasteful rich area. Before it got swallowed by the growing city, Barranco used to be a charming bathing town where the rich of far away Lima had their summer houses. It still has a cute Plaza Central and many tasteful old houses. The bars at the seaside are ideal for a seductive date, or a night of steaming dancefloor action.

When talking of high culture, the highlight of the capital is the outstanding collection of Incan artifacts in the basement vault of the privately owned Museo de Oro del Peru or Peruvian Gold Museum (upstairs is the Arms Museum an incredible collection of weapons ranging from spears to a Gatling gun). As extensive as the gold collection is, it is sobering to realize that these are merely crumbs. The Spanish melted down or looted the best pieces.

Also visit the Museo de la Nacion (National Museum -- tours available in English) one of the largest museums in South America. Divided into exhibits looking at the past present and (imagined) future of Peru, it includes a model of the gold-laden tombs recently excavated at Sipan and reproductions of some of Per?'s best archaeological sites.

Lima has 20 more museums including the Museum of the Inquisition (torture instruments, university library, and carved ceiling) the National Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology (pottery, textiles, and stone figures from all of Per?'s past cultures) and the Museo Rafael Larco Herrera (55,000 ceramic works including erotic pre-Columbian pottery).

Churches to see include the Cathedral on the Plaza de Armas (it holds the remains of Pizarro), the Baroque Church of San Francisco (beautiful hand-carved ceilings and catacombs containing 70 000 skeletons -- guided tour available), and La Merced (site of the first mass in Lima -- it has a lovely cloister and chancel).

Other sights include the Palacio Torre Tagle (the marvelous example of colonial architecture -- now serves as the Foreign Ministry), Casa de Aliaga (built in 1535 and still occupied by the same family!), and Casa de Oquendo (where General San Martin stayed after proclaiming Peru's independence).

On the Plaza de Armas (government center since 1535) is the Palacio de Gobierno (Presidential Palace where a changing of the guard takes place daily at 12:45 pm) the Archbishop's Palace (notice the ornate balconies) and the central bronze fountain. Barrio Chino (Chinatown) merits a visit at dinnertime. Should time allow include the Puente de Piedra, a 530-ft/162-m stone bridge built 200 years ago.

A visit to the Rimac district should include the Convento de los Descalzos (amazing colonial convent with paintings and other art).

Nearby is the town of Pachacamac which has some of the best pre-Incan ruins (allow at least a half day for this excursion). The Temple of the Virgins, the Temple of the Sun, and the excellent preserved irrigation systems are among its attractions. Be sure to include the seaside suburbs of Miraflores (a youthful place, away from the hubbub and smog of the central district) and Barranco (nightlife and the center for performing arts in Peru) in your itinerary.

Travelers flying from outside of South America to visit Peru must come through Lima to go anywhere in the country, so it might be best to pick up Lima a couple of days at a time on the way in and out. Visitors who are on their first trip to Peru should plan only a couple of nights in Lima. Lima is not the only highlight in a beautiful country like Peru, unless one simply prefers visiting an urban center. Some travelers find their time best spent in the high sierra to visit Cusco and Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu) or in the selva for a jungle adventure in Iquitos.

___________Getting Around
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The most common way to get around in Lima is by taxi. As with anywhere in Peru, passengers must always negotiate the price of the trip before entering the vehicle. This is important so that passengers don't end up pay far more than they should for a ride.

Passengers should take caution and keep an eye on valuables at all times. A common trick for pedestrians is to walk up to a taxi, reach in an open window, and take off with a passenger's possession that is in plain sight. It is always a good idea to put larger bags and backpacks in the trunk and out of sight.

Lima is a place where passengers should be especially careful when riding in taxis at night. Most drivers are okay, but it is regularly reported that taxi drivers have stolen money from passengers late at night.

___________Getting There
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Jorge Chavez
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If coming from another country into Peru (even from most destinations inside the country), it is almost certain that you will be flying into Lima's Jorge Chavez airport, which has recently been given a substantial make-over. The new mezzanine floor has a number of shops and cafes, plus a small amount of similar facilities the other side of the departure gates.

From here, taxis will be easy to find (indeed, they will find you), but some caution should be excercised. No cab will be metered, so know your exchange rates, and agree upon a price (preferably in Soles) before you more..
type: By Air
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address: Avenida Elmer Faucett

__________Museums
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The following museums offer an opportunity to examine closer the Peru of the Incas, and the country's art and history.

[Add Museum]
"Museo de la Nación"
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Museum of the Nation

A visit to the museum makes a good introduction to a trip in Peru. It rounds up the all the different cultures accross Peru in a very thorough though interesting manner.

Inaugurated in 1990, exhibition in big rooms distributed in four levels, with a sample that recreates all the pre-Hispanic manifestations among 14,000 BC. and 1532 AD. Ceramic exhibition, replicas of the main archeological places of Peru. Dioramas, paintings and diverse collections that represent the different aspects of the development of the old Peru. Restoration shops, more..
type: general
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address: Javier Prado Este Avenue No. 2465, San Borja.
tel: +(51 1) 476-9875 / 476-9882
Museo de Oro del Perú
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Distributed in four big rooms, it is the exhibition of one of the biggest collections of pieces and jewels of gold, silver, semi precious stones, ceramic and textile of the cultures Mochica, Chimú and Vicus. Beautiful necklaces, tumis, scepters, idols, funeral masks, etc. This collection is the sample of the extraordinary advance and technical goldsmith and metallurgic of the old Peru.

Part of these collections are taken to other museums around the world, due to this, their internal disposition can change.

Also counts with the "Museo de Armas Antiguas" (Museum of more..
type: general
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address: Alonso de Molina Street No. 1100, Monterrico.
tel: +(51 1) 435-2917
openingHours: daily from 11:30 to 19:00
Museo Arqueológico Rafael Larco Herrera
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Archeological museum Rafael Larco Herrera

Founded in 1926, on an old mansion built in 1707. This museum harbors the biggest private collection of pre-columbine art that exists in the world. Exhibition of archeological pieces of ceramic, gold, stone, wood and textile of pre-Hispanic cultures, especially the Peruvian northern cultures. Outstanding the "Sala de Arte Textil" (Textile Art room), the "Gran Sala de la Cultura" (Great Room of the Culture), and the "Bóveda Sala de Oro" (vault Gold Room). It also exhibits the only collection of world of "Erotic Huacos". History more..
type: general
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address: Bolivar Avenue No. 1515, Pueblo Libre.
url: www.tsi.com.pe
tel: +(51 1) 461-1312 / 461-1835
"Museo de Arte e Historia"
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Museum of Art and History

Colonial paintings, books, documents, furniture and popular art of Peru.
type: general
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Museo de Arte
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Museum of Art

Located on the Palacio de la Exposición (Palace of the Exhibition) since 1961. It was built in 1872 with plans of Gustave Eiffel. Formed by donated pieces and legacies. It exhibits collections that show the art of Peru from the prehistory and the first human discoveries until the contemporary art. Ceramic and fabric pre-Hispanic cultures collections. Silver jewels, furniture and colonial dresses. Paintings of the "Escuela Cusqueña" and of the periods republican and contemporary, outstanding the collections of Ignacio Merino, Pancho Fierro and Carlos Baca Flor. more..
type: general
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address: Paseo Colon Street No. 125, Lima.
url: www.tsi.com.pe
tel: +(51 1) 423 4732
"Museo de Arqueología y Etnología"
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Museum of Archeology and Ethnology

Collection of archeological pieces of the Chavín culture and discoveries of the University.
type: general
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"Museo de Historia Natural Javier Prado"
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Museum of Natural History Javier Prado

Dependence of the Universidad Nacional de San Marcos. Founded in 1918, exhibition of the flora, fauna and minerals of Peru. Collection of the Italian Antonio Raimondi.

Opening Hours: Monday to Saturday from 09:00 to 12:00 and Sunday from 09:00 to 13:00

Entrance: S /. 2.50
type: general
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address: Arenales Avenue N°1256, Lince.
tel: +(51 1) 471-0117
"Museo Amano"
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Private collection of Mr. Yoshirato Amano.

The museum was founded in 1964, exhibition of pre-Hispanic textiles, quipus and ceramics. Outstands the collection of the Chancay culture.

Opening Hours: Previous phone appointment.
type: general
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address: Retiro Street No. 160, Miraflores.
tel: +(51 1) 441 2909
"Museo Nacional de la Cultura Peruana"
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National Museum of the Peruvian Culture

Founded in 1946, building with front inspired by the Tiahuanaco culture. Exhibition of popular Peruvian arts, amazon and folkloric ethnology; fabrics, ceramic, musical instruments, saddlery, imagery, etc.

Opening Hours: Tuesday to Saturday from 10:00 to 14:30

Entrance: Free
type: general
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address: Alfonso Ugarte Avenue No. 650, Lima.
tel: +(51 1) 423 5892
"Museo de Arte Italiano"
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Museum of Italian Art

Founded in 1921, building with the Florentine renascence architecture. Designed by the Milan Architect Gaetano Moretti. Donated by the Italian colony in Peru when being commemorated the centennial of the Independence of Peru. Sculptures, drawings, furniture and canvases of Italian art. Also diverse temporary exhibitions.

Opening Hours: Monday to Friday from 09:00 to 14:30

Entrance: S/. 1
type: general
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address: Paseo de la Republica 1st block, Lima.
tel: +(51 1) 423 9932
"Museo del Congreso y Antiguo Tribunal de la Inquisición"
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Museum of the Congress and Old Tribunal of Inquisition

Located on the old colonial local of the Tribunal of the Saint Inquisition that originally was Nicolás de Ribera´s house (XVII century), son of one of the conquerors of Peru.

The building consists on a Chapel named "Capilla del Santo Oficio", jewel of the colonial architecture, decorated roof that is considered one of the most valuable colonial relics in the Peruvian art, carved, secret cameras, torture rooms, and underground prisons. After having abolished the Inquisition it was the local of the University San more..
type: general
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address: Junin Street No. 548, Bolívar Plaza, Lima.
url: www.congreso.gob.pe
tel: +(51 1) 427 0365
"Museo del Banco Central de Reserva"
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Museum of the Central Bank of Reservation

This museum is divided in three sections, archeology, numismatist and contemporary Peruvian painting. Excellent ceramic collection of the pre-Inca Vicus culture. The contemporary painters are very well represented in this museum.

Opening Hours: Tuesday to Friday from 10:00 to 16:30, Saturday and Sunday from 10:00 to 13:00

Entrance: Free
type: general
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address: Corner of Lampa and Ucayali Streets, Lima.
tel: +(51 1) 427 6250
"Museo de Arte Religioso de la Catedral"
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Museum of Religious Art of the Cathedral

Exhibition of liturgical objects, ornaments, carved articles, paintings, and furniture of the viceroyalty time.

Opening Hours: Monday to Friday from 10:00 to 12:45 and from 14:00 to 16:45
type: general
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address: Main Plaza, Lima.
tel: +(51 1) 427 5980
"Museo de San Francisco de Jesus"
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Museum of San Francisco of Jesus

Exhibition of liturgical articles of the viceroyalty, carved articles and paintings of Francisco of Zurbarán.

Opening Hours: Daily from 10:00 to 17:45
type: general
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address: Ancash Street 3rd block, Lima.
"Museo de la Universidad Nacional Mayor de San Marcos"
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Museum of the National University Mayor of San Marcos

Opening Hours: Monday to Saturday from 09:00 to 14:00
type: general
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address: Parque Universitario, Lima.
tel: +(51 1) 428-0052 / 427-4870
Sala de Arte de Petroperu
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Pertroperu is the state oil company of Peru. It has announced an exhibit of contemporary religious art from Ayacucho, Peru. The exhibit will run from December 19, 2006, through January 12, 2007, at the Sala de Arte de Petroperu (Petroperu's Room of Art). Most of the art in this exhibit will be based on the celebration of Christmas and will feature artists Primitivo Evanan, Florentino Jimenez, Nicario Jimenez, Desiderio Loayza, Christian Sanchez, Mamerto Sanchez, and Rosalina Tineo. Some artists will also be there to demonstrate techniques used in more..
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address: Petroperu, Canaval Moreyara #150, San Isidro, Lima, Peru

________Tours and Excursions
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Islas Palomino or Palomino Islands

Not known by general public until recently, Islas Palomino is one of the nicest excursions you can take in Lima. Featured as an alternative to Islas Ballestas (Ballestas Islands), for people unable to go to Paracas (a roundtrip of seven hours from Lima), Islas Palomino is just an hour on board a yacht from the historical port of Callao, which in its turn is just half an hour from the center. The tour takes full 4 hours and you'll also get to know Isla San Lorenzo(San Lorenzo Island), Isla El Frontón (El Fronton Island), and Isla Cavinzas (Cavinzas Islands) islands full of old and recent history; and the most exciting, the fabulous and friendly sea lions of the cold peruvian sea; the amazing Humboldt penguins (quite similar in looks and size to the Magellanic penguins); and many other sea birds species. You can swim along these young and playful sea lions as well, if you want it too.