Kassala Travel Guide
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kassala
kassala
Kassala is located in the East of Sudan, some 600 km from Khartoum
practically on the border with Eritrea. It used to be one of the touristic
highlights of Sudan, and is still quite popular with Sudanese newlyweds who
come here to honeymoon.
The cool climate and the stunning scenery are the main attractions. The city
is split in two by the Gash River.?A wide expanse of dry sand for most of
the year, during the rainy season it fills quickly and has caused
devastating floods on many occasions.
The city of Kassala itself is made up of low houses organized by a
rectangular street map. Spread around the whole city of some 150,000 people,
are tens of thousands of trees. The market of Kassala is great, selling
mangoes, grapefruits and guavas from the fruit orchards all around the city.
And the local handicrafts have a most distinct style, and are generally of
good quality.
Kassala is known for its mix of tribes, among them the Beja (Beni Amir,
Haddendawa and Halanga). Beja men are very noticeable around town, wearing
waistcoats over their robes with long swords worn over their shoulders. On
the outskirts of the city live the Rashaida tribe, mostly inhabiting
goatskin tents. They are a nomadic people who breed camels and goats, and
are closely related to the Saudi Arabian Bedouin, having migrated from the
Arabian Peninsula about 150 years ago. It is the mysteriously-veiled
Rashaida women who make a great deal of the silver jewellery sold in the
Kassala souq. There are also many Hausa and Felati (Fulani), especially in
an area called Gharb el-Gash. Originating from West Africa, the story goes
that they made the pilgrimage to Mecca, running out of money on their way
home and settling in Kassala.
Overshadowing the city are the famous 'sugar-loaf' mountains of Aweitila,
Totil and Taka (after which the city's football team is named). At the foot
of the mountains is the well of Totil, and as the locals claim, if you drink
from it, you will return to Kassala one day. The surrounding cafes on the
lower slopes of Jebel Totil are very popular at sunset, and famous for
serving the best coffee in Sudan. The village below, Khatmiya, is the oldest
part of Kassala, containing the mosque and tomb of Sayid Hassan and many
old-style houses.
Kassala is a pretty easygoing place, and for Sudanese standards it has
excellent tourist facilities. However, visiting Kassala can sometimes be
difficult due to the nearby conflict along the border with Eritrea. A
special permit from the Ministry of Humanitarian Affairs in khartoum is
needed, otherwise travellers will be turned away at the entrance to the
city.
_________Sights
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Kassala souq is one of the liveliest and most colourful in Sudan, attracting
people from all over the surrounding region. Aside from the many stalls
selling locally grown fruit and freshly made juices, and of course clothes,
local crafts can also be found, including silver jewellery and Beja swords.
At the top end of the souq is the women's market (Souq an-Niswaan), which is
the place to buy clay jebbanas (coffee pots) and other coffee-making
equipment. Nearby, the Rashaida tribe have their own small market selling
their distinctive clothes.
Khatmiya is the oldest part of Kassala, picturesquely located at the foot of
the mountains. Visitors can enter the roofless mosque, and may also be
invited to enter the tomb of Sayyid Hassan. Locals will tell you that the
mosque and tomb were either damaged in a rockfall or were bombed by the
British, but because of Sayyid Hassan's holy powers, rain never falls
through the hole in the roof. Nearby is a Sufi tariqa belonging to the
Burhaniya group, where followers gather on Fridays towards sunset to chant
to accompanying drums.
Above Khatmiya, on the lower slopes of Jebel Totil, are several cafes built
into the rocks, which are renowned for serving the famous Kassala coffee,
spiced with ginger and cinnamon, served in a clay jebbana with incense and
popcorn. These cafes are especially popular on Thursday and Friday evenings,
and it is not unusual to see wedding parties. Behind the cafes, drink from
the well of Totil and locals say you will return to Kassala one day. As the
sun sets, the monkeys living in the mountains descend to hunt for food and
generally cause havoc.
To reach the top of the mountains, climbers may need ropes and a local
guide, but it is possible to reach halfway by scrambling up the rocks behind
the cafes. Great views can be had of the city and also behind the mountains
looking towards the refugee camp at Wad Sherifei and the mountains of
Eritrea.
Running through the city is the Gash River, which for most of the year is a
wide expanse of sand. As the sun gets cooler, it becomes a popular place for
games of football and karate practice. In the rainy season, the banks of the
river are packed with locals who come to eat nuts and watch kids jump off
the bridge into the fast running water.
The other side of the river is mainly residential, but an interesting place
to walk. Gharb el-Gash, the area past the university, is a predominantly
Hausa quarter with a lively food market during the day, and stalls selling
Hausa specialities like agashe in the evening. Nearby is the railway quarter
called Sikka Hadeed. Trains no longer operate to Kassala, but the grand
station building is still there, as are all the British-built brick houses
and round huts for railway workers. |
