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Iasi Travel Guide
Edit This The best resource for sights, hotels, restaurants, bars, what to do and see
"Al.ICuza" University (19th c.)

"Al.ICuza" University (19th c.)

cciobanu by www.iasicity.ro
Iasi, the capital of Moldova (the province), is nicknamed the cultural capital of Romania. One of its highlights is the splendid neo-gothic Palace of Culture. It will take you more than a day to visit the palace, not in the least because it houses four museums (its most famous two probably being the Art Museum and the Moldovian History Museum).

The city boasts the oldest public university of Romania and still is a incredibly popular student town. The older part of the former capital of Moldova is very inviting with its many museums and churches, such as the 'Saint Nicholas' which is the first church with the unique external walls painted style, applied latter on the famous Bukovina monasteries or 'Trei Ierarhi' dating from the 17th century with its carved-stone facade - Iasi has seven monasteries inside its city limit. Many 19th century style buildings still shape the city flavor, one of them being 'Traian' Hotel designed by Gustave Eiffel. Many museums, old fashion parks and surprisingly an incredible number of statues posted at almost every corner.

__________Getting Around
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At The Bul Chimiei

At The Bul Chimiei

Nebojsa Milikic

ok, where to start form? Of course that all fingers point to the Palace of Culture, so let's skip it... its pompousness and grandiosity when compared even today to its closest surroundings, makes Ceausescu's Palace of People a modest and decent project...
...go down the street on the right to the very decorated church in Bd. Stefan cei Mare si Stant. It is Str. Trei Ierarchi. It turns left and then down right - in five minutes you're in the Sf. Andrei street where most of the side passages look straight to the Palace of Culture. Walk along this street and see how the very center of Iasi looked during so called ''Communist times'' but also try to imagine how it looked before those times...

Only then, when you realize how these cities looked like before ''communist times'' you will be able to understand the ideas and achievements of modern architecture in Eastern Europe, which had its distinctive developement in Romania...

Let's start from the most problematic examples: at many squares, all around Iasi or in the most of other Romanian cities, you will find these types of huge housing projects. In my opinion, they were projected as a statement that system was still ‘super structured’. My assumption was also that flats on these central locations were more accessible to gigantic bureaucracy. It appeared that in these buildings one could find – -like anywhere else in Romania or Eastern Europe in general- workers and managers having flats in the same buildings. Folklore and ancient-Dacian-like decorations had probably to encounter the ongoing alienation of the regime from the people during eighties. Check this out in front of the Railway station or on the Square (Piata) of Podu Rosu, or on the crossings of Bul. Socola and str Bucium. Also the huge buildings flanking the Main Court building in the central city street of Anastasie Panu show this gigantism - in this case resembling docking construction for some space shuttle.

Buildings from sixties and especially seventies show an elegant and enlightened approach to housing. In suburbs like Tatarasi, Dacia, Alexandru, Nikolina, one can find many facades that go under the rule of Marija Milinkovic Mr. Arch., teaching assistant at Belgrade University: ‘’the good façade is the one that you cannot spoil…’’ Check out the long building in Tatarasi, in the top of the Vasil Lupu Street, or the beautiful building with restaurant on the crossing of Bul. Nicolae Iorga and Bul. Socola. Being perfectly projected, it has just yielded to the decorative style pressure by the small incrustation near the top, which can be forgiven when you climb the roof terrace. Buildings in the Bul Alexandru cel Bun show the peak of this social and architectural mission.

Walk to the industrial zone of Iasi, along the Bul Chimiei. You’ll see the masterpieces of modern thinking in architecture, both when industrial hales and managerial buildings are concerned. Note how the hales ‘’suprematist’’ outlines appear in the viewers perspective while walking down the boulevard. The sophisticated attention was given to the contours and volumes of all objects, to façade design and to the overall urban composition. This makes the Bul Chimiei The Alley of Art of Architecture in the Industrial Era. Rent a small kiosk here. In twenty years, when most of European tourists will start to think wider than in ‘’the-old-city-centre’’ terms, you’ll be a rich man, just guiding tours through The Alley. And getting big tips when you pay their attention to the somewhat displaced hale and headquarters of Iasitex. Check out the building next to Pod Metalurgie, this is a masterpiece, where obligatory decoration is masterly integrated in the modern façade. The industrialization was kind of renaissance here… the one also dedicated to the showing off ruling classes – working class and non-working class, bureaucracy.

Walk the streets. Find out how tolerant are inhabitants of Iasi towards stray dogs. They calmly sleep in the middle of crowded pedestrian paths. Buy ‘placinta cu branza dulcu’ and you’ll never forget it. Go to the Nikolina green market to chat with white cheese sellers, before the EU legislative offensive erases them. Go to tea café in the basement of City Library (in str Toma Cozma), one of the coolest places in the world. You can also check the Loving Time menele café in the street I Wan’t Tell You Which – Find it Yourself. If you did all that and you also realised how charming are enclosures of terraces, and how nice are housing projects of Nikolina and Tatarasi, and if you checked Dancu, and the city edge where new individualism in housing follows the new-old one in transition-business buildings… then you can afford to spend some time in the Palace of Culture… and I hope that I will do that next week…